Make it a gasser
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
A couple of hint's I'd offer to a new Raptor owner
1. Replace the tail hub with part number PV0499. It's a better design and will reduce the chance of the tail blowing apart, especially as you will likely be digging holes in the ground with the tail as you learn to hover.
2. Put some extra security measures to hold the pin in place for the rear tail gear - the red gear that the belt turns to spin the tail shaft. I use a piece of shrink wrap around that gear to secure the pin. I also drill a hole in the tail case to provide an inspection hole for that gear.
Before - what the pin looks like as it's slipping out
After - My fix, some shrink wrap around it
3. Replace all the fuel lines with quality fuel lines. The kit supplied fuel lines will liquefy inside the fuel tank, becoming roughly the consistency of green snot. I use black "clunk" fuel tank line made by Hayes. Also I like to put a spot of RTV silicon on the fuel tank nubs when putting the tank in the frame. Helps keep the frame from cutting into the tank.
4. when the opportunity presents itself you'll want to loctite the bearing onto the pinion gear with green loctite. This is a common wear item that can be completely avoided with loctite.
5. I have found I can remove a lot of slop in the controls by putting a bit of glue on the screws that have sleeves over them such as the collective arm pivots, seasaw screws, tail L crank pivot and other areas that use these screws. Especially the tail pitch fork to tail blade grip connections. minimize slop as much as possible while keeping everything operating smooth and low resistance as possible.
6. Check the balance of the main blades and tail blades. If you are flying with wood main blades (a good idea for learning with!) make SURE you glue the plastic blade roots on with epoxy after carefully cutting off the covering in that area. This is very important as you do not want a main blade shooting off the heli while it's hovering right in front of you!
There are a number of other good hints and whatnot at raptortechnique.com and myraptor.net
Credit given to jschenck of runryder
2. Put some extra security measures to hold the pin in place for the rear tail gear - the red gear that the belt turns to spin the tail shaft. I use a piece of shrink wrap around that gear to secure the pin. I also drill a hole in the tail case to provide an inspection hole for that gear.
Before - what the pin looks like as it's slipping out
After - My fix, some shrink wrap around it
3. Replace all the fuel lines with quality fuel lines. The kit supplied fuel lines will liquefy inside the fuel tank, becoming roughly the consistency of green snot. I use black "clunk" fuel tank line made by Hayes. Also I like to put a spot of RTV silicon on the fuel tank nubs when putting the tank in the frame. Helps keep the frame from cutting into the tank.
4. when the opportunity presents itself you'll want to loctite the bearing onto the pinion gear with green loctite. This is a common wear item that can be completely avoided with loctite.
5. I have found I can remove a lot of slop in the controls by putting a bit of glue on the screws that have sleeves over them such as the collective arm pivots, seasaw screws, tail L crank pivot and other areas that use these screws. Especially the tail pitch fork to tail blade grip connections. minimize slop as much as possible while keeping everything operating smooth and low resistance as possible.
6. Check the balance of the main blades and tail blades. If you are flying with wood main blades (a good idea for learning with!) make SURE you glue the plastic blade roots on with epoxy after carefully cutting off the covering in that area. This is very important as you do not want a main blade shooting off the heli while it's hovering right in front of you!
There are a number of other good hints and whatnot at raptortechnique.com and myraptor.net
Credit given to jschenck of runryder
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Welcome to Boise and the TREX600
The day he moved to Boise, was the day he walked into the LHS RCHobbies and walked out the Trex600E. Ross lets it rip in a local park! Nice Job!! and Thanks!
Monday, April 20, 2009
Nothing makes you shake like your first time.
Your first Bike, first kiss, first date, first....never mind! And the first time you start flipping the heli around trying to do some 3D.
Life is good!
Life is good!
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Heli Chat
Come and join us propeller heads at the shop on Wednesday Evenings (7:00PM - 8:00PM).
Bring your helis and radios as we'll shoot the bull on setup, exchange crash stories and if anyone is building one when can help put it together and exchange ideas on building, setup and radio programming.
Bring your helis and radios as we'll shoot the bull on setup, exchange crash stories and if anyone is building one when can help put it together and exchange ideas on building, setup and radio programming.
A123 Batteries for the T-Rex 500 and like Helis
A123 Racing now has a 6S1P 2300mAh packs for the T-Rex 500 and similar helis. Max amperage is 138A and weight is ~500g. Voltage is slightly lower at 19.8v (3.3v/cell nominal) instead of 22.2v so they will not have the equivalent kick for the same number of cells. So think of them as 5S packs but gear them appropriately for the actual voltage.
Also, you will need an ESC that you can set the low voltage cutoff appropriately (stock T-Rex 500 ESC will not work. Castle Creations and Scorpion are options).
These packs are Li-Ion packs using nanophosphate and are safer and more durable than traditional LiPos and can be quick charged (15-20min) and handle more cycles, but they do weigh a bit more.
You will also need a charger that can charge A123 cells.
Also, you will need an ESC that you can set the low voltage cutoff appropriately (stock T-Rex 500 ESC will not work. Castle Creations and Scorpion are options).
These packs are Li-Ion packs using nanophosphate and are safer and more durable than traditional LiPos and can be quick charged (15-20min) and handle more cycles, but they do weigh a bit more.
You will also need a charger that can charge A123 cells.
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