2. Put some extra security measures to hold the pin in place for the rear tail gear - the red gear that the belt turns to spin the tail shaft. I use a piece of shrink wrap around that gear to secure the pin. I also drill a hole in the tail case to provide an inspection hole for that gear.
Before - what the pin looks like as it's slipping out
After - My fix, some shrink wrap around it
3. Replace all the fuel lines with quality fuel lines. The kit supplied fuel lines will liquefy inside the fuel tank, becoming roughly the consistency of green snot. I use black "clunk" fuel tank line made by Hayes. Also I like to put a spot of RTV silicon on the fuel tank nubs when putting the tank in the frame. Helps keep the frame from cutting into the tank.
4. when the opportunity presents itself you'll want to loctite the bearing onto the pinion gear with green loctite. This is a common wear item that can be completely avoided with loctite.
5. I have found I can remove a lot of slop in the controls by putting a bit of glue on the screws that have sleeves over them such as the collective arm pivots, seasaw screws, tail L crank pivot and other areas that use these screws. Especially the tail pitch fork to tail blade grip connections. minimize slop as much as possible while keeping everything operating smooth and low resistance as possible.
6. Check the balance of the main blades and tail blades. If you are flying with wood main blades (a good idea for learning with!) make SURE you glue the plastic blade roots on with epoxy after carefully cutting off the covering in that area. This is very important as you do not want a main blade shooting off the heli while it's hovering right in front of you!
There are a number of other good hints and whatnot at raptortechnique.com and myraptor.net
Credit given to jschenck of runryder
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